But as it turned out the back fit perfectly.įitting on the back armor onto the robot (this is my fantasy). My chief concern here was that the back would be warped slightly due to the intensive drilling. You can totally relax now and use some alcohol and a towel to clean off the glue strands and electrical tape sticky residue, and to clean up or polish the camera.
I expect to be constantly refitting things with ease, so the glue isn’t as crucial to me. I’m using cheap stuff as this particular classic camera is so big I’ve decided to use longer M42 adapter rings and therefore I can easily attach/remove the digital camera back. Here I’ve taken a break to get a fresh pack of glue sticks. What a happy sight! Have a well-deserved coffee and do wash your face, hands, and eyeglasses carefully of any metal dust. With plastic cameras, you have to guard against the plastic shattering or drilling too quickly, so there you also have to go slowly and don’t let the machine get too hot.Īfter filling out the information on your modification journal, you can sit back and relax. Of course, if you have a drill press, you’re all set, as long as you have experience using it. Since then, I’ve learned to do it patiently, in spurts.
I had to switch to a high powered drill and nearly caught my hand in the drill on high speed. I know I’m repeating myself here, but the worst experience I had was drilling at night on an Agfa PD Clipper, a real vault of a camera. In this phase I always find myself thinking scary thoughts like remembering someone who shot himself with an elephant gun while trying to clean it. Be extra careful of any sharp flashing as you do so at the opening, blow out any additional metal dust between the leatherette and the metal at the opening as any dust that comes out later will probably land on your M4/3’s sensor, ouch! Finally send the bits to the lab or keep them with camera’s medical records.Īfter about 40 minutes of using a drill bit that I tried from both sides (the holes were different but at the 30 minute mark I finally cut through to the other side). Be sure to clean the opening and the entire back with a damp cloth and some alcohol.
#Digital camera retro full#
On the left, from top to bottom: the leather cover, the full circular plate, and the first biopsy piece that came out first. Depending upon the material of the back, this step may take a long time - or not.ĭrilling completed. My overall advice is to take your time in this project, as if you were smoking a pipe and reading a book. It’s going to be a long drill session… Go to sleep early the night before, and eat a decent breakfast so you can be at the camera “operating room” by 8AM. You can see the metal in the middle underneath the leatherette. I do this because I have the know-how.ĭrill a little to get the positioning just right. I am not recommending it for anyone but experienced adults who have drill experience. This is the most awkward and dangerous part of the job. Proceed with this step at your own risk, or ask an experienced person to do it for you for a nominal fee. Proceed with safety, and drill in pulses, not straight through. I once drilled in reverse by accident and the drill almost yanked my hand towards it.
Metal dust will be all over the place, wear safety goggles and doublecheck the direction of rotation of the drill. You should place a sheet of paper under the camera back as additional protection from scratches to the leather finish. Note that this photo is for illustrative purposes only as I drilled the hole outdoors. You will have problems later if you don’t center this.īuy a metal drill bit (approx. For some reason, it is very easy to mark and later on place the M42 adapter on off centre. Mark the drill area as well as the center with a soft lead pencil. Plus, one cannot focus just by rack-and-pinion, you often are adjusting focus by moving the track, so it’s kind of like playing a trombone. With such extreme focal lengths, 90, 130, 210, 300mm, all of the cameras I have modified feel different when I’m shooting them on the street. Remember when selecting a camera that the Micro 4/3 will have a crop factor which will increase the focal length. It will give you an idea of how the final set up will look. You can test a camera just by placing a Micro 4/3 camera without lens attached, at the area where the pressure plate should be. On some you might have to actually fabricate a back (sure it is possible, but I would need a lot of motivation to do so, like if it were a camera on my short list or you might not have to drill a hole at all and simply use the removable port hole door on some cameras. Of course, each vintage camera will be different. Note the metal drill bit, and the spare M42 adapters. For drilling the hole in the back of the camera, you’ll need the materials seen above.
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